Exploring Thailand from North to South

November – December 2024 | Thailand

Bangkok, Thailand

After a month in Vietnam, I flew to the North of Thailand. The connection was via Bangkok, the country’s biggest and most important airport. Instead of switching aeroplanes, I went into the city and met a friend. I spent a full weekend in Bangkok before continuing my journey to the North on Sunday.

I went to one of those famous Thai night markets with my friend. It was just next to one of the famous temples in the city (Wat Saket). There are so many, actually. The next day, we headed to a newly opened shopping mall (Bangkok One) to grab food. I was impressed by the size and the leisure areas they added, which had a lot of green space. We kept going around and passed by skyscrapper building with a famous observation deck made with glass. We just watch it from down since it was so touristy and expensive. I’m usually not in the mood for such tourist scams. So we continued to the big river of the city with a nice skyline. There we grabbed dinner and later went to a bar were I met a co-worker from Switzerland which stays a couple of months per year in Thailand. He was just for a couple of days around the capital and I was very happy that our schedule matched so perfectly and we managed to meet for a drink on a rooftop bar by the river.

The next day my friend and me grabbed Sushi in a mall. They had those conveyor belts with dishes in the middle of the restaurat attached to all the tables. So you could just pick a plate and grab it. Some special dishes could be ordered via the tablet and arrive via the belt as well. This concept I’ve never experience so far, althought I’ve seen about it a couple of times online.

After that it was already time to pack my things and head to the airport. I had a evening flight, so I had plenty of time during the day. So I decided to reach the airport the “local way” and grab a public bus. Travelling with my big backpack isn’t always so convenient, but I was up for that experience this time. I found a stop with a direct connection to the airport closeby my accomodation, so this was perfect. I even found the bus stop on the road telling me the correct number of the line. But the scheduled times seem off. Nevertheless I just waited there. Busses were passing and after maybe 20 minutes a bus with my number arrived. I hopped in, paid and was assured it’s going to the right destination. The bus got packed at some point while passing trought the downtown. At the end of my ride, the lady working in the bus notified me to leave here (typical Thai politeness, which I love). So I made it to the airport in time, with the local experience und for basically no money (I think for 1$).

Chiang Mai, Thailand

I arrived in Chiang Mai late in the evening. The airport is very central to the city, so I ordered a Grab, which brought me to my new home for the next 3 weeks. Chiang Mai is one of the digital nomad hotspots in Thailand. It was on my list for a long time, but I never made it because the timing was wrong. Since Chiang Mai lies in a valley they have a so-called “burning season”. That’s when farmers burn their fields and the wind brings the smoke down the valley into the city. Since there’s no rain, it will stay in the air and it’s very unhealthy for people and not a good visibility. That’s when I didn’t want to be in the city, usually at the beginning of the year until the first proper rainfall this situation in present. Since I arrived in November this time, that’s a great time to be in the city.

There was also just a very famous festival for whom many people arrived to see it. It’s called the “Lantern Festival” and people let balloons fly, lighten small wooden ships, and let them float down the river and combine with fireworks. It’s a special moment to be in the city and experience it. I didn’t know about that when I booked and was stranded once again in a new country with some local traditions going on without me even planning it. That happens quite often to me.

Chiang Mai is renowned for its large, golden temples. They’re impressive, indeed. There are just so many that, after seeing a couple of them, they’re no longer that exciting. The density is just insane. I passed by some while walking through the city, and one evening, I went up the hill to visit one with a great view down to the city.

I also met a friend from the Philippines who was backpacking around Europe and then finally headed to Southeast Asia. It was nice to get updated on the travel experience and chat while enjoying some lovely local food. Another day, I met a Swiss friend in the city whom I had served with in the army. We also went out for food and drinks.

During the workweek, I usually head to a co-working space. Since the city is packed with digital nomads, a handful of co-working and co-living spaces exist. Some are impersonal and expensive, so I tried to avoid them. Another new one was recommended to me, and I wanted to check it out. It’s called RealSpace and is run by a very friendly British guy. He just started and was about to build a community of nomads to hangout after work, play games and do activities in the space, while providing a productive place to work during the day. He had very good workspaces, some equipped with VR headsets, which I wanted to try since I never had the opportunity. He mainly used them for gaming sessions in the evening with the community, but I was more interested in using them during work and expanding my screen differently. It was an interesting experience with a still cutting edge technology which I think can have a future, especially for nomads who don’t have a fixed workplace and not space to bring big screen.

Pai, Thailand

A place which keeps popping up when I talk with people about Chiang Mai is Pai. It’s a town in the mountains and should be very nice. I wanted to check it out and did a weekend trip by scooter with a Filipino friend of mine, who’s working in Chiang Mai. It was a spontaneously searching for somebody to join me on the trip. Because memories are always better done when sharing experiences than when doing it alone, this was also true for this trip.

It’s about 4 hours away from Chiang Mai to Pai. So we started in the morning, spent a night in Pai and returned the other day in the evening. But step by step. We got minimal luggage for one night out. We just had a small scooter and didn’t want to pack much. So a small backpack for each person for the necessary things. We drove North, first on the highway until it went into more hilly and curvy roads. We stopped to see the “Mok Fa Waterfall” and had some food there at a local shop. It was good also to rest a bit from driving. Then we continued up the mountain, had some nice views down the valley.

We arrived at the accommodation a little outside Pai quite early, around 3 p.m., so we had some time to rest. The accommodation was really lovely, in the forest with a view. The bungalows were super cute and stylish. Later, we went to a canyon to see the sunset from there. Just at the entrance closeby the road there were many people. Since I don’t like crowded places, we continued to some other locations around the cliffs. The path got quite tricky, even me as a Swiss mountain goat, had some difficulties, so also my friends. But we both managed and left a lot of people behind us. Finally a less crowded place to enjoy the sunset. We enjoyed, but needed to return the tricky part before it got dark.

After the canyon, we headed to town and ate Thai food at a restaurant. Pineapple fried rice, cashew fried rice, and juice—that’s heaven for me. I like Thai food so much. Afterwards, we had some walks around the centre. There are very nice vibes and many restaurants and bars. That evening, a race was also going on, and people were arriving at the finish line.

The next day it was already time to leave. Before we left the village we went up to a viewpoint where we could see over the valley and the fields. Then we went again to the town to grab a juice and cake with a Swiss friend who was also just in Pai for a couple of days. Then we headed off over the mountains and the curvy roads toward Chiang Mai again. I like driving such roads with motorbikes or cars, but you must be very careful in Thailand. So many people are driving above their skills and hence very dangerous. It’s not rare to see accidents; you’re always the weakest as a motorbike.

When the mountain road merged into the bigger highway, we stopped at a outstanding cafe location. A real aeroplane converted into a cafe. It was a perfect time to rest for a bit of the long drive. We got our “ticket” (order) and entered the aeroplane to enjoy a bubble tea. The sun was just about to set, and we enjoyed the view and the atmosphere. After a while we continued the last stretch and arrived for dinner time in the city. There my friend and me went into a restaurant by the river and live music. A perfect ending of a great weekend roadtrip.

Koh Samui, Thailand

Next up, down South to the islands. I was checking for some good flight connections that are not running via Bangkok, and I could find one going from Chiang Mai straight to Koh Samui. Usually, they’re costly, but mine was comparable to the other flights with a stopover, so I was happy to have a straight flight down to the island. Koh Samui has a tiny and sweet airport. It is very tropical-looking and more like a resort than an airport.

I never really spent time in Koh Samui and never explored the island, but I didn’t feel like staying there for the week to work. So I planned to spend the whole weekend on the island and dedicate it to exploring the island unplanned and backpack style. On arrival, I checked into a hostel to have the holiday vibe. Downstairs they had a small co-working place which I used in the evening to work a little for my personal projects. The next day I went to a rental place to rent a motorbike for a day to be able to independently explore. I circle navigated the island and stopped at different place like a viewpoint, a temple, a rocky beach and ended up at the party area in the North to grab dinner. A successful day where I could explore the island. It’s not huge.

The next day, I could sleep long and grab a nice breakfast at a nearby cafe. Then I returned the scooter and headed to the port. I booked a fast ferry to the next island, Koh Phangan, where I’ll spend the next few weeks.

Koh Phangan, Thailand

It’s my second time in Koh Phangan, and I love the island and its relaxing vibe. The first thing I usually do when arriving at the port, I go to my scooter rental of choice close by and rent one for a couple of weeks. First things first to be flexible to move everywhere. With my backpack, it’s easy to move around. While waiting for the check-in time I went to a coffee to grab something and I already got the message that the Airbnb is ready. So I headed up a bit North to my favourite area where my accommodation will be. A bungalow a bit elevated with a great view. The best part was that my local friend was my neighbor so we could hang out after work and grab dinner. Her friends family place was just below my bungalow and we met there sometimes to hangout with the locals. I like to be part of the local culture like that.

I wanted to focus on work and build a routine in the following weeks. I visited a co-working space, spent time with my friend, enjoyed a nice meal, and took in the beautiful sunsets. Sometimes, I also went to a bar and played pool like the locals do. I love this independent and relaxed lifestyle. It makes me very productive and inspired.

Back in Malaysia, I had some good experience with Lazada, an online shop where I could order different things (like Alibaba or Amazon). I needed some replacement items for my phone, so I ordered them to my place here on the island. I’m always unsure whether the shipment will work, and it did. I received my items a few days later, even at my doorstep. I don’t have much luggage and keep everything to the minimum. I use or wear things (clothes, shoes, etc.) until they’re broken. So in the case of my smartphone cover. The old one was really used, so I replaced it and the old went directly into the rubbish.

One weekend, I planned a fancy getaway up in the North. It’s a quieter area with some luxurious resorts. I booked a private pool villa for a night and enjoyed it fully. I usually prefer to live in an apartment and do things by myself. My apartments are typically upper-class buildings compared to locals’, but not full-service. That’s not my style. So this weekend was different. The view was beautiful and the villa as well. A very typical Thai style into all it’s details. I’ve rarely seen that to this extend. Also the service was spotless in this 5 star resort.

Krabi, Thailand

It was just about to rain hard, and I hopped on the motorbike to rush to the port in the South. There’s a small rain season, and once in a while, a rain shower. But little did I know that the beginning of this morning’s rainfall was about to get stronger. I booked a combined journey by boat and bus to Krabi on the other side of the coastline of Thailand. The boat ride was pretty smooth, rain, but not big waves. While driving in the bus, there was still a lot of rain but it got better on the other side of the coast. But on the island it rained the full day non-stop. The island where flooded and my friend send me a video of the place I normally parked my motorbike. Half a meter deep in the water. The roads was basically a river.

Arrived in the centre of Krabi town, I was meeting a friend I’ve known from my visit to Vietnam. We stayed at the same co-working space there and were about to head to the same co-working space next. She came from cold England and had a fly to Krabi and decided to wait for me some days so we can do the last stretch together. This allowed us to explore around Krabi, a place I’ve never visited before. The weather wasn’t the best, but luckily it wasn’t much rain. Just no sunshine. We walked along the beach a little and followed a trail to another hidden beach inaccessible by road. My friend still had a lot of jetlag, so went to bed very early while I went out for dinner alone and worked.

Koh Lanta, Thailand

Next up is Koh Lanta, my favourite place in Thailand. I have already spent a couple of months on the island, and this trip there was spontaneous. First, I wanted to spend more time in Phuket, but since some of my friends were in Koh Lanta, I decided to stop on the island for more than a week and reduce the time in Phuket. It was totally worth it and I met in addition to some already known friends many more. The community in the co-working and on the island itself is always top notch.

It was Xmas time during my stay on the island. Usually, my company tries to close and focus on family. I typically use up all my leftover vacation days, and since the official holidays this year were very employee-friendly, I had almost two weeks off. So, during my stay in Koh Lanta, I wasn’t working for my employer but trying to get up to date with personal work and projects like this travel review.

Besides that, I visited some beaches—one in the South with French friends from my co-workers and the American friend I stayed with in Krabi. It was a great weekend morning trip. There’s also a paddle court close by to which some co-workers sometimes go to play. It felt like in Vietnam with playing pickleball. A Dutch friend I met in Hoi An was also playing with the group here on the island. In the following days, I had many great talks with people at the co-working space, especially a guy from Moldova with whom I did many things and had in-depth discussions.

Christmas Eve was approaching, and for that evening, the co-working group organized a dinner I surely attended. It’s a moment I usually spend with my family at home in Switzerland, but this time, on the other side of the planet in the tropics. So it was nice to have some people around to talk and have dinner together. Nothing more sad then having food out alone or spending time in the accommodation alone for that evening. Luckily in Koh Lanta always something is going on and I never feel alone. At the same time very productive too. So the best mix.

Phuket, Thailand

After Christmas Eve, I took a ferry to Phuket. I always avoid speedboats because they’re unsafe and uncomfortable. So, I usually get a slower ferry with proper seats, and I can even do some work from there. When I arrived in Phuket, I did the same as I always do. Get a motorbike to go around. I booked two different Airbnb on two different places on the peninsula. I still have days off and I don’t need a proper base to work from. So I can move around freely and just go with the flow. The first accommodation was on the West side, in Patong. An area famous for parties, but also has some nice beaches.

I moved around a lot the next few days and just enjoyed it. My laptop is always in my backpack, so I can work on my own schedule and finish many pending personal things. I felt so motivated and good. On the way, I met many friends who live in different areas of Phuket. It’s always great to meet up with friends from past travels and catch up on their lives. I participated in various activities, went out for food, drinks, or to the beach. One day, I rented a canoe with a friend and we paddled on the ocean for a bit.

Another day, I did a hike with a close friend to my favourite sunset spot in Phuket. It’s reachable in two different ways, and the last time I did it, I did it from the one via the coast. This time we tried another way from the top. The spot is not very crowded because there’s no way to drive there, so you have to walk, and many Asian people don’t like to walk. So that’s great for me. I enjoy such quiet spots.

We started walking for around an hour and got lost somewhere because we decided for a wrong path. At some point the path went narrower and narrower, my friend already hated me, but I wanted to keep going since I saw the path making a turn. I also had no clue and the satellite data of Google Maps weren’t accurate. At some point the “path” we walk in was covered in high grass. But luckily just for a short while and we arrived at a campsite at the edge of a cliff. From there on I know we found back just with a bit of a detour. It was just a couple hundred meters from the campsite until the top part of the viewpoint. There are stairs leading down to where most people rest and watch the sunset. Shortly after we arrived there, clouds started to show up and it started to rain. Luckily not for too long. I was prepared and had rain coat with me as I always do when doing anythings in the tropics. You never know.

The 31st of December was approaching. I needed a haircut, and I knew a very nice place. A converted bus turned into a barber shop. There, I went, got a fresh haircut for the New Year, and met a local friend for a coffee in Phuket town. From there on, we continued to dinner, and a Swiss friend joined us. It was a surprise, and I just figured out a day before that he’s in Phuket at the moment. I met him for the first time in the Sahara desert, then back in my hometown and now in Thailand. Three different continents within three meetups. Amazing. And this time was even more special. It was New Year and the second surprise, it was his birthday, so we had two reasons to celebrate.

First, we went to the centre of the old town and waited for midnight. There, a fireworks display was happening. After that, we went to one of our local friends’ favourite bars and spent a good time there, talking and just enjoying the music and atmosphere. It was a very different and amazing New Year, one I’ll remember.